fitting a hard buttplate

What are the Ruger hard plastic buttplates made out of?....they seem to be impervious to a file!

I got a 10/22 Sporter stock missing the buttplate, but found a NOS source for only $11.
for the majority of the fit, the plate is less than a 1/32 proud, but the toe is of about an 1/8".

I taped the stock with some thin metal tape and started with a flat cut file , but that was just sliding across. Went to the mill bastard and been at it for an hour and still got a long way to go

we use MORE tape and a belt/disc sander, and lots of care ................... :roll:

( finish fit the plate, OFF the wood.......) :wink:



care in maintaining the proper angle of the toe....... 8)



as Grampa used to say " practice, practice, practice".....

well I don't have a power sander...just the files.

the toe has another problem. It had a chip when I got it.

Not sure how or even IF I'll try to do something.

When I encounter chipped away areas like that, I'll mix walnut sawdust with two-part epoxy and then, once hardened, blend the shape as best that can be done.

To get the hard plastic butt-plates blended I use the same jig for installing recoil pads, after the contour line has been scribed.

welol by th epicture, shows the chips not that deep, and we would just finish it off (remove the tape) in this case and sand, file and bleand ( taper) the wood and the pad at the same timeslightpy alter the angle of the toe,,,BUT then that calls for a finish redo of the stock, and yes, it snow balls ,BUT a job worth doing, is doing it right............and yes if you can "master" the matching of the actual wood, as to fill, color and the grain........fillers can and will work.... we never could do that one properly, my gunsmith Walt was the "master" at that, he could even paint in grain,but then again he and Tony ( engraver for Conn. Gun Company) used to upgrade Winchester 21 's to Grand Americans........totally out of our league, just handy and nearby ......sadly now even they too are retiring.....ahh, the aging of the work force..........retired since 2002 8) :roll: :wink:

Taking your advice, I scribed the proud, took the plate off and hand file to the line. while it still took a lot of time, It did go a lot better.

BUT, things do snowball.

For butt plate screws I measure the ones from my 77/22 and got two #8 X 1" oval heads from Lowes.

Again this is a stock I just picked up and the holes in the stock must be pulled as I can just push them in.

So what might be a good fix?

I'm thinking trying to force varnish into them and let that dry. any thing better?

go to bigger screws?

Liquid Nails. Best adhesive for wood

from a distance, I like the looks.
(still just a little proud and a few cutting marks that need to be polished out.


But I now have a vintage 1022 Sporter !

yessir, looking better, and a quick fix for the screw holes, break off a piece of a wooden cotton swab stick, the depth of the hole and then screw the screw in, will take up the slack.......

rugerguy said:

yessir, looking better, and a quick fix for the screw holes, break off a piece of a wooden cotton swab stick, the depth of the hole and then screw the screw in, will take up the slack.......

Click to expand...

Toothpicks work, too.

:wink:

Use a hand-drill to drill the holes to a slightly bigger size. Coat two walnut dowels ( available at finer hardware stores ) with two-part epoxy and push those into each hole. Let sit for 48 hours, then file/sand flush. Drill two new holes for the buttplate screws.