Mk II peened chamber

Back in '02 I bought a new Mark II at a gun show and before I got out of there I took it to "Mr. Volquartsen" for a sear, trigger, and hammer. Later I changed the front sight from the target type to ramp type so it wouldn't tear up my holster. I haven't used this pistol a lot over the years, but lately have pulled it out for dry firing sessions. And I've virtually always had a #4 drywall anchor or something similar in the chamber.
A friend borrowed the pistol a couple of weeks ago and I was quite surprised when he called to tell me the pistol wouldn't easily chamber a round from the magazine and the case was difficult to extract and scratched. I told him I suspected the chamber face was peened, and indeed it was. When he returned the first thing I did was pull the bolt and the the firing pin stop was in place.
I assume with the changes I've made Ruger won't service the pistol. I'm trying to locate a Tom Menck chamber ironing tool and hope this will solve my problem. If anybody has had a similar experience, or used this tool, your input would certainly be appreciated. In the mean time I'm no longer dry firing this or any other .22 auto, snap cap or not.

Midwayusa has the chamber irons for a decent price. Just follow the instructions. It is a simple tool to use. Where in central Texas are you located?

I went to Midway, Brownells, and several others and it seems Mr. Menck has either passed on or retired and is no longer producing this tool. I found a listing on e-bay and I hope I wasn't scammed. I watched the Larry Potterfield video on YouTube and it seems simple enough...if you can get the tool. Nature abhors a vacuum, so hopefully somebody else will fill this void.
I'm just a bit north of Austin. Which is quickly becoming California.

when we did warranty work for High Standard back in the 70s we simply used a Sears tapered punch to swage back any firing pin divots, quite simple and easy to do, and it did the job at Camp Perry for 3 years...... 8) :wink:

NEVER, cut or ream with a chamber reamer, the divots!!!! :roll:

I bought one here a while back. https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=227429
If you would like to borrow mine, if you didn't already purchase one, PM me your address and I will get it to you. Just return it when you are done with it.

THANKS. The generosity of this group has never failed to impress me. According to the magic screen I should have a tool next week. If that doesn't pan out I'll give you a call,.

rugerguy said:

when we did warranty work for High Standard back in the 70s we simply used a Sears tapered punch to swage back any firing pin divots...

Click to expand...

:lol: That's exactly how I repaired my Trophy, right down to the Sears brand punch.

cas said:

rugerguy said:

when we did warranty work for High Standard back in the 70s we simply used a Sears tapered punch to swage back any firing pin divots...

Click to expand...

:lol: That's exactly how I repaired my Trophy, right down to the Sears brand punch.

Click to expand...

That's how I would do it.

yessir the taper of the Sears punch was of a perfect "graduation"" for the mouth of the 22 cal chambers. 8) :wink:


( and we did thousands of them over the years....never got paid a dime either) :roll:

Anyone have a picture of the ''Sears punch''? I'm going to need one soon.

The above post involved with the recommendation to NOT, remove any raised metal is a very good one. What you want to try to do, is cold swage the metal back into place as best can be:



The Menck "chamber ironing tool" will help get the metal protruding into the chamber back in place fairly well, but if there is metal raised up on each side of the "ding" on the breech face, that will need to be done a bit differently. Even the tapered punch will not be able to do that, but only if you use the very working end of that punch to try and flatten the raised metal back into place.
Leaving that metal raised up as is, will not permit the .22 cartridge rim to be flat against the breech face as it should be.