ISO: info on timing new Blackhawk cylinder

I am seeking a how to video on how to time a replacement Blackhawk cylinder.

I have obtained a new 9mm cylinder for my new Vaquero (birdshead) 357 that is the exact length of the 357 cylinder. When installed, it does not time correctly, in that the bolt does not unlock the cylinder soon enough and the pawl pushes the cylinder before it is free to move. I looked at the ratchets, and the thickness of the ratchet teeth at the very rear (where they are flat and ride against the frame) are slightly wider than those flats on the cylinder that came in the gun. I do not want to alter the pawl as it works perfectly with the original cylinder. I am wanting to add the 9mm cylinder to this gun.

It appears that if the flat of each ratchet was carefully filed a few thousandths, this would accomplish the purpose.

I seek knowledge. Have been S&W armorer for 25 years, but the single actions are different.

That's one of the few cases I've heard of an added cyl having a timing problem.

The flats could be slightly reduced as you propose.

The easier solution as you also mentioned is slight modification to the pawl.

Pawls have a pretty good tolerance for variation and still work fine so I check that first.

The top of the pawl is where you need to reduce height very slightly to allow the new cyl to unlock. It will make little difference to the other cyl. The lower shelf on the pawl is more critical for cyl lock up at the end of the hammer cycle to full cock.

You don't even have to remove the pawl from the gun. Remove cyl, full cock the hammer, and wedge pawl forward with a wood pencil or sliver of wood. Then stone the top of the pawl, Install cyl and check progress often.

But 1st check the new cyl operation with the lower pawl notch for lock up timing. Install the cyl in a position where the cyl latch does not lock into the cyl notch. The 2nd pawl notch will now be revolving the cyl. Cock the hammer: does the cyl lock up before the hammer reaches full cock? They should both lock up about the same time.

If the cyl locks up first, you could relieve the top of the bottom pawl step. And keep checking with original cyl for lock up at the same time as hammer. If you go too far the cyl will "time late", after the hammer reaches full cock. I relate all that info just so you understand the timing in a single action.

However, if it looks like you need adjustment of both steps of the pawl, I would do as you suggest, relieve the horizontal surfaces of the cyl ratchet teeth.

Hope that helps more than it confuses!

I agree that you need to work on the CHEAPER part,, the Pawl,, instead of the cylinder to get the timing to work.

Thank you both for this advice. I did not want to jump in without guidance. It did seem to me that a minor reduction of the top pawl step would not be harmful to original fit as it would just drop the cylinder stop later in relation to rotation, and this gun drops the cylinder stop (S&W terminology) very early so there should be room for adjustment.

I appreciate the clear explanations.

Bob