Another favor for a range buddy.... Long story... his gun blew a chamber; Ruger won't fix it (don't ask). Measurements now available: 1.976" from ratchet to gas seal. Still looking while Scott is searching around for his for me. So, if anyone has one, pls. let me know; include price and we;ll work from there. MANY THANKS, John(nu2). Will also post in Classifieds....
NM .41 Mag cyl. FOUND ONE Tks
- Thread starter Johnnu2
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Hondo44
Hawkeye
Set up searches in eBay and Gunbroker. Easier to find 357 cyls and have reamed to 41 mag.
Thanks Hondo.... Scott PM'd me and has one; he just has to find it 
)) Will wait for him first altho it could take awhile....
Updated 5/28: Still looking for a 41 Mag cyl (while Scott is searching around for his). Got the measurement finally:
1.976" from ratchet to gas seal
)) Will wait for him first altho it could take awhile....Updated 5/28: Still looking for a 41 Mag cyl (while Scott is searching around for his). Got the measurement finally:
1.976" from ratchet to gas seal
jebstuart
Single-Sixer
I think that's a very long 41 NM cylinder. I have 4 (2 Bisley & 2 fluted) and the one I sent you a pic of is 13 thousandths shorter than your measurement, as you know. The longest one I have (fluted) is still 11 thou. shorter. I double checked my measurements and I think I'm right. You might consider a Ruger cylinder shim (triggershims.com or Brownells). You mentioned that the revolver "blew" a chamber. Do you think it possible that the blow may have opened the cylinder window slightly? Just thinking outloud.
Jeb
(Posted in classifieds also John)
Jeb
(Posted in classifieds also John)
Jeb......... I am embarrassed to say that I didn't think that, perhaps, the cylinder with the blown chamber may be giving us a false measurement i.e. it elongated itself... Now, I guess we have to back to ground zero and determine what the correct measurement is... I think that until we figure out that correct measurement, we're dead in the water..... Will be back if/when I talk with my friend and decide what to do next.... THANKS for your thoughts...
John
John
jebstuart
Single-Sixer
Hi John,
I'm sending "B" the longest fluted .41 cylinder I have, and I think, with shims you'll be fine. I've used them and they worked well for me. Again, your measurement is the longest .41 NMBH I have seen, so just be sure to check the cylinder gap on all chambers/charge holes once the cylinder is in place to see how closely they match each other. That will tell you everything is square. A "range rod" is very helpful with a new cylinder also. That will verify alignment between the chambers and forcing cone. If any are out, it'll spit lead to one side, but can be easily fixed. If I can help in any way, just let me know.
Thanks,
jebstuart
PS, you may already know this, but use the "range rod" as follows:
Perfectly brush and swab clean the barrel and cylinder - the .41 rod is a tight fit.
If the rod drops through the barrel & all cylinders to the firing pin, no work is needed.
If the rod is stopped by any cylinder chamber but will drop through the cylinder to the firing pin when the cylinder is rocked back and forth by hand, no work is needed.
If the rod is stopped by the rocking cylinder and will not drop when lightly pushed, the cylinder is being stopped short or locked in overtravel by the cylinder bolt.
In this case; the easiest way to remedy the condition is lightly shave the cylinder bolt on the appropriate side 1/1000" at a time with a flat stone or fine file, reinstall and retry. A very little goes a very long way.
Looking from the back of the revolver, if stopping short of alignment, shave the right side of the bolt. If overtravel, the left side. It helps to mark a line indicating the exposed portion of the bolt, on the appropriate side (that needs a shave), that protrudes through the frame before removal. I use a razor point sharpie.
The tricky bit is to create just enough play in the cylinder to allow the rod to drop through the cylinder when rocked by hand. It will then self align when a bullet leaves the cylinder and touches the forcing cone. It relieves stress on the revolver and stops lead spitting.
That was a lot of jabber, but I hope it's helpful,
Jeb
I'm sending "B" the longest fluted .41 cylinder I have, and I think, with shims you'll be fine. I've used them and they worked well for me. Again, your measurement is the longest .41 NMBH I have seen, so just be sure to check the cylinder gap on all chambers/charge holes once the cylinder is in place to see how closely they match each other. That will tell you everything is square. A "range rod" is very helpful with a new cylinder also. That will verify alignment between the chambers and forcing cone. If any are out, it'll spit lead to one side, but can be easily fixed. If I can help in any way, just let me know.
Thanks,
jebstuart
PS, you may already know this, but use the "range rod" as follows:
Perfectly brush and swab clean the barrel and cylinder - the .41 rod is a tight fit.
If the rod drops through the barrel & all cylinders to the firing pin, no work is needed.
If the rod is stopped by any cylinder chamber but will drop through the cylinder to the firing pin when the cylinder is rocked back and forth by hand, no work is needed.
If the rod is stopped by the rocking cylinder and will not drop when lightly pushed, the cylinder is being stopped short or locked in overtravel by the cylinder bolt.
In this case; the easiest way to remedy the condition is lightly shave the cylinder bolt on the appropriate side 1/1000" at a time with a flat stone or fine file, reinstall and retry. A very little goes a very long way.
Looking from the back of the revolver, if stopping short of alignment, shave the right side of the bolt. If overtravel, the left side. It helps to mark a line indicating the exposed portion of the bolt, on the appropriate side (that needs a shave), that protrudes through the frame before removal. I use a razor point sharpie.
The tricky bit is to create just enough play in the cylinder to allow the rod to drop through the cylinder when rocked by hand. It will then self align when a bullet leaves the cylinder and touches the forcing cone. It relieves stress on the revolver and stops lead spitting.
That was a lot of jabber, but I hope it's helpful,
Jeb
