Questions about tools used for grips/making?

I have made several grips for my Ruger single actions as I like them from certain woods and couldn't find grip makers willing to use my wood for grips,
But they are always made without any Ruger emblems in them because of no tool or knowledge of how to drill or mill the holes?
Could a grip maker or someone that has knowledge of how to do this help me with what tools to use or with any sizes of holes or how to do it?
I have made my own grip escutcheon drilling bits for the screws but since they are hand made I had to make my own escutcheons to fit, always too small and I would rather buy the escutcheons to save time but
need to know what tool is used to drill these holes too?
Any help or point me in a direction I would appreciate it.
Thank you
Ron

Caryc helped me with this exact same question years ago. I can't recall the exact name of the bit,, but I bought one, and it's perfect. It's not a Forester bit. I'm about to leave for a match. If nobody responds before I get home, I'll look it up for you.

Have you checked with Brownells?

There are Forstner bits which would do what you want for the emblems. You would probably find that an end mill would do the same job and may be available in more different sizes than Forstners. Even if you don't have a mill, you could chuck one up in a drill press. For the escutcheons, I've mostly just used two different drills, one for the escutcheon and one for the screw. Brownell's sell drills for this purpose as well as escutcheons and screws that work with them. I like to make my own escutcheons on my lathe, so I just use the drill sets I have.

For cutting the scales, I use a bandsaw and then a belt grinder for shaping. Final sanding is done by hand with the usual selection of papers and I like hard felt to back up the sand paper. I've made my own stag grips (both Sambar and faux) for several single actions and I always save scraps from my stockmaking projects for small stuff like this. Highly figured walnut looks really nice. I've never thought to get medallions and inlet them. Might be fun.

A piloted counter bore is used to bore for the medallions and can be found at most
Machine tool suppliers online. Brownells sells a counter bore that is correct for the grip screw sets they sell I have and use both.

Ok, caryc recommended a better tool than a Forstner bit for medallion work. I found my stuff, and here it is, as given to me by one of the best, Cary Chapman.
McMaster-Carr mfg.
Part number; 3103A17 is a changeable counterbore pilot, 1/8" shank, diameter 5/32" pilot diameter.
Part number; 3102A19 is a High Speed steel changeable pilot counterbore, 1/2" Body Diameter, 1/4" shank diameter, 2-13/16" L Overall.

A "brad point" drill bit is what I use. Home Depot, Lowes, or any good tool store should have them. They drill a flat bottom hole.

I make a lot of grip panels for Ruger Mark pistols, from the early Mark I's and the Standards up to the Ruger Mark III issues. I'm now making a set of templates for the outside shape of the Ruger Mark IV grip frames.

Most of the work I do is done by manual machining and hand shaping. I did adapt a flexible shaft Moto-tool into a mini-router to relieve the left panel on Ruger Mark II panels for the bolt release/stop assembly and a routing template to do that stage. Makes things look much more professional. Then, you need to think about the hump in the grip frame for the magazine follower button and how to cut/machine that properly.

From that point, the panels are hand filed, sanded and then finished. I use the BEST Forstner bits I could find that run as true as possible in a "GOOD" drill chuck for setting the medallions, if those are being included.
The panels are hand finished with the finish rubbed into the wood until the pores are filled. I need to have a smooth, hard, top surface so that my checkering cutters will not catch a grain line and wander off. Line spacing is cut one line and a time to partial depth and then cross over lines are cut. Cutting of checkering is done to partial depth in one direction and then the work piece is rotated and cut from the opposite direction. I have found this process works best to keep lines straight and the diamond points even.

I make a lot of grip panels for Ruger Mark pistols, from the early Mark I's and the Standards up to the Ruger Mark III issues. I'm now making a set of templates for the outside shape of the Ruger Mark IV grip frames.

Most of the work I do is done by manual machining and hand shaping. I did adapt a flexible shaft Moto-tool into a mini-router to relieve the left panel on Ruger Mark II panels for the bolt release/stop assembly and a routing template to do that stage. Makes things look much more professional. Then, you need to think about the hump in the grip frame for the magazine follower button and how to cut/machine that properly.

From that point, the panels are hand filed, sanded and then finished. I use the BEST Forstner bits I could find that run as true as possible in a "GOOD" drill chuck for setting the medallions, if those are being included.
The panels are hand finished with the finish rubbed into the wood until the pores are filled. I need to have a smooth, hard, top surface so that my checkering cutters will not catch a grain line and wander off. Line spacing is cut one line and a time to partial depth and then cross over lines are cut. Cutting of checkering is done to partial depth in one direction and then the work piece is rotated and cut from the opposite direction. I have found this process works best to keep lines straight and the diamond points even.

Wow, beautiful grips! I may need a set of those for my A-54 frame Mark I Target when I return to the States.