New to me Blackhawk more questions

So I bought a beater 357 NMBH at a gunshow this weekend for $157.50. It's pretty rough but perfect for a truck gun.
Questions:
1) IF I choose to send it in for a factory refinish, how good can they do with significant pitting? The cylinder on one side is pretty rough. The rest isn't bad, kind of looks like it might have gotten blood on it.

2) Is there a fix for the NM cylinder indexing issue? Somewhere I saw a 1/2 cock hammer for a NM. Is that a fix? Or, will the factory put an indexing pin it like the newer ones?

3) Anyone have a good load for the 170gr Keith 358421 bullet?

Thanks

The factory will do about the best they can with a refinish,,, but you must understand that you can not put metal back once it is gone.
What is the indexing issue?
The 1/2 cock parts are from Powers Custom.
If there is an action problem, Ruger will fix it back to factory specs.

Loads. Many out there,, and only YOUR gun can tell you what it likes. Experimenting is part of the fun of owning one.

The indexing issue is the fact you have to hold the cylinder between clicks to load/unload.

I doubt I will have it refinished as I wanted a truck gun I wasn't too worried about.

Free spin pawl modification on mine. I had Ruger refinish a OM about 10 years ago that had a pitted cylinder. They did a good job. There is a cylinder for sale now in the classifieds.

That indexing is normal. Ruger won't modify it from it's original configuration.

There's several options to correct the indexing issue. Ruger will not install the RIPS (reverse indexing pawl system) on a gun that didn't come with it. But a smith could easily or an individual. Part of the system is a free wheeling cyl pawl. But that's all you really need. This method is the easiest and it's free:

Solution 1. Modify your pawl to a free wheel cylinder pawl. No cost and almost no skill required.
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/FreeSpin.html

Me personally I do not like the free spin pawls ~ leaves your revolver nothing like an SA. I don't know why Ruger didn't make their SA's with a half cock notch so the cylinder indexes correctly. If you get a power custom hammer with a half cock notch for loading that will fix the indexing problem too. The problem with the power custom hammers is that they are not drop in parts. They need to be installed and fitted by a knowledgeable and competent Ruger SA gunsmith. I knew a gunsmith that used to make half cock notches on standard Ruger hammers (Wes Flowers) but he has made his exodus. Seems like it wouldn't be that hard to do, just weld a small bead on the front of the hammer and cut a "notch". Too bad theres no one else that can do this....

Ruger's lack of half cock notch was not only deliberate but a major part of their new model safety system. Loading is made safer by elimination of hammer manipulation while the gun is not being held in firing position.

Power Custom's hammer, trigger and transfer bar parts truly are drop in. If one only purchases the 1/2 cock hammer, then it is not a drop in part. However the modifications needed to the original Ruger trigger and transfer bar are so simple and non-critical with the supplied instructions, that anyone capable of disassembling the revolver that has two hands and at least one eye, can do them. If not, only then is a gunsmith necessary.

Others have added the 1/2 cock notch, but actually it's just easier to use a less modified old model hammer w/o requiring welding. And even easier if one wishes to eliminate the transfer bar as well.

The New Vaquero/New Flat Top RIPS system for proper indexing can be added to any NM Ruger as well.

One can even turn any NM Ruger into an OM Ruger if wanted, with or w/o transfer bar safety.

So can I just drop an OM hammer in a NM and remove the transfer bar and I have half cock?

NM converted to a 4 click OM action w/o transfer bar or loading gate lockouts using OM hammer:

The OM hammer is almost a drop in, and the trigger needs simple modification:

Remove the transfer bar. The loading gate will be freed up so you can open it with the hammer in any position or cock the hammer with loading gate open.

1. Shim the hammer screw hole, because the OM screw is slightly larger than the NM pin. And that's simple: take a 22 case with bullet and powder removed and primer fired which is just the right size, (a fired 22 shell won't work because it's expanded), press it into the OM hammer screw hole in a vise, and cut the case off flush on both sides. Debur the edges and clean out with a 22 bore brush. Now the NM hammer pin will fit perfectly.

2. See the NM trigger on the right in photo below: Cut off the transfer bar connecting boss from the trigger to clear the OM hammer base.

3. The very thick Ruger NM trigger sear must be thinned down from the front side (to the shape of an old model Ruger trigger shown on the left, below) to fit the OM hammer notches. The rear corner of the trigger, which is the actual sear is not touched, so sear geometry for proper full cock is not affected.

_______________________Clements two adapter triggers are shown in the center_________________________
OM trigger__________________standard____&____Bisley w/over travel stop__________________NM Bisley



OPTION 2:

You can also purchase the Power Custom "Registered hammer", http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=1119
You will not need to cut off the trigger transfer bar boss but still need to thin the trigger sear (or buy PC's already thinned trigger).


OPTION 3 for a 4 click Bisley hammer:

You can also purchase the PC "Bisley hammer for old models", http://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=12&sort=20a&page=3

You will need to make all modifications above, shim the screw hole, cut off the trigger transfer bar boss, and thin the trigger sear (or buy PC's already thinned trigger and just cutoff TB boss).

If you don't have a Bisley grip frame, you'll also need to reduce the hump on the back of the Bisley hammer.