3 3/4" bbl ejector spring delimma

I usually shortened the barrels on the revolvers I like to a size that suits me.
I did shorten up a BH Vaquero in the past to 3 3/4".
Bought the shorter size housing to use on it and made my own ejector rod because I like the crescent moon Colt type and wanted to get all the length I could.
Using a John Wayne type Belt Mountain pin that Belt mountain made for me, I went as far a counter sinking a small depression in the back side of the Crescent moon to allow for more rod travel.
But am having hell getting the correct ejector spring to work.
If I shorten one of the Ruger ones to the length that wont "stack up" before full travel then its too loose when extended.
If I stretch it to allow for tighter operation it binds in the housing or rod as it gets smaller diameter when stretched.
Ruger lists one number for the springs, anyone have a solution?
I went thru about 200 springs I have and some were to correct diameter but did the same as the Ruger ones.
This is a stainless BH Vaquero.
Thanks
Ron

You may just have to wind your own spring. Springs are not that difficult to make.the piano wire is wraped around an appropriat diameter mandril,usually in a lathe.
I have not looked but there should be youtube on it.

http://www.leespring.com

my company orders springs from here. If you can figure out about the tension and wire size and diameter and length you need they probably have a stock one that will work. I doubt you will need to wind one. Have not done a "custom" from them. Stay away from the stainless steel springs Pretty worthless overall.

Thanks , I have wound springs before but not that small of wire and not a compression spring.
I will measure and give them a look , I am like you I think it has something to do with the stainless steel. first I ran into such a problem.
Ron

See new post below.

10-4 ! :!: :wink:

All the ones I did on here, most were 3.5" barrels with cammed ejector rod housings or a notch for a turn and clearance. In any event, I always shortened the factory spring, cut and try and never had a problem. All eject (lift a case for plucking or dumping or popping clear) and none were too loose.

I used the regular Ruger housings but relived them inside a bit with a hone.
Made my own Colt style crescent moons with finger depressions ( don't like the original Rugers or their new flimsy little colt style ones either.)but fit them to the housing so they cannot touch the barrel at any time.
Made the threaded rods as long as possible to where it almost enters into the cylinder frame cavity.
Also got some length by extending the slot about half way past the barrel screw and then relived the end on the rod and crescent so it would be cupped around the screw when parked.
So far not any of my Ruger spring could be cut to the proper length to be strong enough to hold the rod solid and in the parked position and not be stacked up before touching the head of the pin. Now I have a very short headed Belt mountain pin possibly 1/4" or less sticking pass the frame, but still with the set screw for tightening against the barrel.
So far I have not seen a 3 3/4" spring for sale in a Colt or a Ruger, but have seen them for a Cimarron.
I made all the rods and crescent moons on 4 different barrel length Vaqueros all from 416 Stainless.
Ron

Re: "So far I have not seen a 3 3/4" spring for sale in a Colt or a Ruger, but have seen them for a Cimarron."

Perhaps that's the answer?
I can't help with the length measurement but If you think it would help you decide, I'll be glad to measure the ID/OD of one of my "regular length" Cimarron (Uberti) springs.......Or you might call Cimarron and/or VTI gun parts and see if they'll measure the whole thing for you.

DGW

Is the Ruger part to long? They have a spring for the 3&3/4" birds heads I've used a couple times without issue part # KMR04400. Shorties aren't capable of full ejection, but a sharp stroke will kick cases clear with sensible loads and a reasonably clean cylinder.

I have three factory Ruger Vaqueros with factory 3 3/4" barrels. The factory springs have proper tension when at rest, and do not 'stack' before the rod head touches the flat "nail head" (much shorter-than-standard) cyl pin head.

There is no part # listed for the short springs in my owners manuals, only the standard full length spring is listed. You'll need to order from Ruger and specify your short barrel. Ruger will send you one or two of these springs and most any small inexpensive parts for free. (336) 949-5200

They measure 3.680" and are not a standard length spring cut shorter. Both ends are "finished" with a couple of flat tight coils on each end. The rear end is larger diameter so the smaller coils nest inside it when stacked; the front end is coiled smaller in diameter so the other coils nest over and around it.

The wire measures .0195". The standard length spring wire measures .021".


I use the new vaq crescent rod on my small frame single sixes but they look too puny on my New Vaquero mid frames and large frame Blackhawks so I use Colt crescent rods.



The COLT ejector rod button makes a nice replacement for the Ruger ejector rod button and is a no brainer, although you can by four Ruger crescents for one Colt.

And here's my method to get the Ruger's crescent button or Colt button to nest up tight under the barrel when at rest, instead of dangling like the Ruger crescent button. Because the Ruger housing slot is straight and not curved like Colt's, I corrected the way the crescent button, Ruger or Colt didn't tuck up tight against the barrel when at rest. It also works for the Ruger crescent button and old round button which also kind of dangles. It may not bother some owners but it's simple to do if it does.

I grind and polish a 'cam' curve in the end of the rod/button as shown below (Colts thread together, Rugers are riveted and may need slight re-peening). The curve must 'nest' or align with the curve of the housing attachment screw when the button is up tight against the barrel in a Ruger straight slot housing. The curved surface of the end of the rod contacts the screw under tension of the return spring and it will "nest" on the screw by "camming" or turning the rod and button tight up against the barrel. Works for the Colt 'bullseye' round ejector button as well.



You may also want to file just a small notch in the barrel side of the housing slot to allow the ER button to fold inward towards the barrel, so the button pops away from the barrel about 1/32" when in use and doesn't rub on the barrel.

A Blue Colt rod and head assembly (they thread together, not riveted/peened like Ruger) is #160-205-003AD, $32.84 at Brownells.

But Colt does not make theirs in stainless. However Brownells also sells a Colt style by MK Technologies, and they do offer it in stainless, Brownells #737-400-101AK, $39.99.
I had to use the MKT for my stainless Montado.



As you can see above, it's flat on the edge but that was easy to fix by polishing to a nice Colt curvature, below:



MKT also makes an ejector housing with a curved slot so the head tucks up tight against the barrel but their housing doesn't fit well and both theirs and Colt's are expensive. So I use the stock Ruger straight slot housing.