Half-lug GP grip alignment pin

Thanks to all for allowing me on this forum.

I have very little to contribute as I am not too savvy on firearms in general but I do have 3 GP 100's (@ the expense of many Smiths I have had and just sold the last one a few months ago.)
Over the years I have had all kinds of 357's, from the desirable 5 screw Smiths in all models and barrel lengths to the later stainless models; also Colt Pythons which I now have none of tho i stil admire and respect them. In my experience the GP is a REAL .357, utile beyond mere fashion and the best revolver for the intended cartridge.

My problem is the grip alignment pin in my 1988 6" half lug GP 100.

It has the original 2 piece Lett grips and I want to put the Redhawk Hogues (w/the blue lining) on it since they are a much better fit for me, but I cannot remove the alignment pin.

I have read and searched for weeks and found that the pin can be 'pushed' out by using a vise and a socket which I tried 3 times, but the pin will not budge.

My vise is a medium sized one and I am asking if I took it to someone with a huge vise if the pin could be pressed out or if anyone else had my problem and found a different manner of removing this pin. (I know better than to 'hammer' on it.)

I hope I will not have to have the pin machined flush with the grip frame then bored or reamed out.

Thank for any advice.

Try a penetrating oil applied for a few days then try it again. I'm not a gp guy, but it will usually work for stuck pins. Don't be afraid of a bench block, proper punch, and a hammer though.

I'm not saying you should try this but on my GP with a stuck pin after soaking with liquid wrench I laid the gun flat on my bench, supported the gripframe with a socket underneath the pin and using a hammer and a block of wood gave it a good whack to drive it loose. After getting it out I gave the pin and the hole a little work with some fine sandpaper so it would move more easily.

If memory serves the pin is knurled on the old GPs to stay in place. You will have to really beat that to get it out. The pin is alum and the frame is steel so you should be fine to pound it out with a hammer. The frame should be fine and you can get a standard pin or make one easy enough.

Sometimes hammers win. Go for it.

Thanks to all who responded.

I thot to soak it B4 trying anything but I want to make sure I have a good support for the frame and naturally remove the trigger group/cylinder so as not to loosen anything up. I can perhaps make a kind of jig for support.

Actually, looking at the pin, it did look either knurled or even splined sp a good soak is in order first.

Again, thanks to everyone. I really appreciate it.

PS - It looks like (and I read somewhere) that the pin goes out from right to left?

GeePee said:

PS - It looks like (and I read somewhere) that the pin goes out from right to left?

Click to expand...

I punched mine out from left to right, looking from behind the gun and the pin was smooth, just a press fit. I believe sights are dove-tailed the same way.

Did you get it out?

Jimbo357mag said:

GeePee said:

PS - It looks like (and I read somewhere) that the pin goes out from right to left?

Click to expand...

I punched mine out from left to right, looking from behind the gun and the pin was smooth, just a press fit. I believe sights are dove-tailed the same way.

Did you get it out?

Click to expand...

Was out of town until last week so I will now try it. Will soak for overnight in ATF/Acetone mix then remove all parts in frame, cross fingers, and use hammer and deep socket.

(Actually I tried it both in vise and with hammer once from R to L and did not work so I will try L to R next.

Wish me luck !

Main thing is proper, firm support of the frame, ( on the opposite side of the direction you are coming from) and a big enough hammer, no needed to beat the heck out of it, a GOOD, solid, ,hard rap, with a BFH and it will move, and in either direction. Many folks are afraid to give it a hard enough "smack" and use, many ,many little light taps, and repeatedly, and mark up the guns terribly...neatness DOES count :wink:

NOTE, no need to take the gun all apart to do this simple job.... 8)

roylt said:

If memory serves the pin is knurled on the old GPs to stay in place. You will have to really beat that to get it out. The pin is alum and the frame is steel so you should be fine to pound it out with a hammer. The frame should be fine and you can get a standard pin or make one easy enough.

Sometimes hammers win. Go for it.

Click to expand...

I concur with roylt. Unlike my later GPs where the pin basically falls out, with my very early GP I tried a BFH, and then a bearing press (yes the frame was fully supported). I finally gave up and drilled it out. It was indeed knurled and pressed in, but you couldn't tell by looking at it when it was in place. I turned a new one from some aluminum stock and it is still going strong 20 years later. Good luck!

I found the bigger diameter X-acto blade handles are the perfect size. I made a pin out of one and it works as the factory part does.

Well, it's out !!!!!!!

You know, I'll be 72 yrs old in a few months and I am as happy as a little kid.
I have always been accused of asking too many questions, specifically "What if" and "Why?" but I want to thank the people who helped me with my question on this forum. An honest queston deserves an answer and you gave me the confidence to treat a 'man's gun' like a man!

Now, if I may burden you all with one more -

Where can i get my chamber throats reamed? Unlike my full lug GP the ones on my half-lug are too small to begin to pass a lead bullet; in fact 2 throats will not let pass a 357 Hornady XTP w/o being pushed slightly (like a lead bullet should be pushed.) I understand this is not unknown with Ruger and I would rather not buy the Brownell's tool to do the job myself.

I live in Michigan, but I would be more than willing to mail the cylinder.

Again, thanks to everyone who responded, esp without responding in a condescending fashion as some on other forums are prone to do.

Glad to hear you got it out. Congrats!

GeePee said:

Where can i get my chamber throats reamed?

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the company that used to be the "standard go-to" for this job no longer seems to be doing 357's.

The Brownell / Manson reamers are easy to use. If you can remove that stubborn pin, you can ream that cylinder!

Hopefully some one will be along shortly with another place to suggest sending your cylinder out for reaming.

NewportNewsMike said:

Unfortunately, the company that used to be the "standard go-to" for this job no longer seems to be doing 357's.

Click to expand...

Upon further research, it looks like cylindersmith.com is no longer doing ANY reaming these days. Their website comes up blank.

Hopefully, someone else will know of another fellow who is reaming cylinders.

NewportNewsMike said:

GeePee said:

Where can i get my chamber throats reamed?

Click to expand...

Unfortunately, the company that used to be the "standard go-to" for this job no longer seems to be doing 357's.

The Brownell / Manson reamers are easy to use. If you can remove that stubborn pin, you can ream that cylinder!

Hopefully some one will be along shortly with another place to suggest sending your cylinder out for reaming.

Click to expand...

I was thinking of getting the tools but would only use them once or twice - I also read they are 'rentable.'

thanks to everyone for taking time for me

Nick

There is another guy doing some cylinder reaming. I believe he frequents the "castboolit" Forum as "DougGuy. I know he has also been around here some.