Faliure to fire

Hi, I installed a reduced pressure spring kit(19#) and a new SBH hammer in my 45 Convert. Now the gun will not go BANG. Very slight pin indentations on the primers, but not enough to kick them off.

Is this due to the lighter hammer spring or possibly something else?

Hammer spring is to light now, try the next heavier spring in the kit.

Just got a single spring in this kit (Wilson)

Put the original back in!!
Why would you want a lite spring I'm wondering? ps

I like a lighter trigger spring, but in lots of cases your better off leaving the hammer spring alone and this is why, light strikes, how many spring all together came in the kit? I have Wilson springs in my SP101 that work really well.

Find a small flat washer to use as a shim to increase the spring pressure slightly. Put it between the spring and the spring seat. Add washers as needed to get reliable ignition. Happens in Cowboy Action guns all the time. Guys put light springs in for easy cocking but go too light and some primers won't go off.

I would not change the mainspring but if you want a lighter trigger you can bend the trigger return spring a little. Also there may be some binding with the new hammer slowing it down or there may not be enough protrusion from the firing pin.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

It is also possible that your new hammer is hitting the frame before pushing the transfer bar forward far enough to fire the revolver. Check the "step" at the top of the hammer face and make sure that it is only slightly deeper than the thickness of the transfer bar.

Great info, I will also check that the "steps" on the new trigger match the old

Jimbo357mag said:

I would not change the mainspring but if you want a lighter trigger you can bend the trigger return spring a little. Also there may be some binding with the new hammer slowing it down or there may not be enough protrusion from the firing pin.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html

Click to expand...

FWIW,
I change out the mainsprings on the vast majority of my shooters!

Yep, I trash those whimpy original springs and install a stronger "Old Army or equivalent" mainspring.
One can end up in deep trouble if a miss fire occurs while hiking around in the Wyomin' Woods..... :shock:

flatgate

Timbo,

You firing pin worked fine with original hammer correct? So it's not the firing pin.

When changing hammers in New model Rugers, the first thing to check is the transfer bar clearance with hammer as JLarsson posted.

TO TEST:
With hammer fully cocked, press on the transfer bar to extend the firing pin and observe how far thru the recoil shield it protrudes. Now drop the hammer, keep the trigger pulled back and observe the firing pin again. If it doesn't protrude the same amount, you need to remove just enough metal from the hammer nose so the transfer bar is pushed tight against the firing pin and hammer channel. If you remove too much, the transfer bar will not perform it's safety function. If firing pin protrudes the same amount, the problem is too weak of a spring. Also make sure hammer has no friction or contact with grip frame ears around it's base to slow its fall; another potential issue when making hammer changes.

IF YOU MODIFY HAMMER NOSE:
At the range, double check the safety function by loading a live round under the hammer, point down range, cock the hammer, hold with thumb, release the trigger to uncock the hammer, take finger off trigger and release your thumb so the hammer falls. The round will not fire if safety transfer bar is functioning correctly.