Loading Cast Bullets

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FieldGrade

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
35
Location
North Central Idaho
Morning all.....I'm getting ready for my try at reloading hard cast lead bullets.
I've read a lot of opinions on lubing naked bullets with Alox or the like vs coated bullets vs bullets that are pre lubed by filling the bottom grove with some waxy looking product.
To find out for myself I have 100 pieces of each to start out with but I'd like to also hear your opinions on the subject.

Thanks
Charlie
 

mikld

Blackhawk
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
947
Location
Oregon
Of the three, "tumble lubing" is the easiest. Just drop the bullets in a container, add a bit of alox, swirl and dry. "Solid" lubing is a bit more involved, with more equipment needed; either for pan lubing, or using a lubersizer. Powder coating is the most involved with minimum of tumbling in powder, then curing the powder in an oven. Also most cast bullets must be sized, either before, during, or after lubing/coating, which adds to the process. And there is a bit more to loading cast bullets than jacketed (case prep, load data, etc., is a bit different).

For better, more complete answers, I would highly suggest Lyman's /cast Bullet Handbook. It will explain all aspects of casting, lubing, loading and shooting cast lead bullets...

All three methods ou mention will work, each with it's pro's and cons, and lubing can be a very "personal" operation as much deals with the methods, equipment, and performance with certain loads, and how the reloader feels about the methods/results.

Perhaps the easiest way to get acquainted with cast bullets is to purchase some ready to load cast bullets. Even though I have been casting for a good while I occasionally purchase cast bullets. I like Acme, and Beartooth bullets but most produce a good product. Just make sure the bullets fit your gun or you may have barrel leading and accuracy issues (bullet diameter vs. chamber/throat diameter vs. groove diameter)...

https://www.google.com/search?q=cast+bullet+manualfacturers&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS776US776&oq=cast+bullet+manualfacturers&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.10360j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 

sixshot

Buckeye
Joined
Aug 20, 2006
Messages
1,835
Location
soda springs, idaho
I've been casting & lubing my own bullets for over 50 years & since I started powder coating 4-5 years ago I haven't used conventional at all & probably never will although I still have both an RCBS & a Star machine. Not too hard to throw a couple hundred bullets (or more) in your case tumbler or a plastic container with a screw on lid, add some powder coat paint, swirl for 60 seconds & then dump into a colander to knock off the residual paint. Now bake in a toaster oven at 400 degrees for 10-12 minutes & then size them after they are cool.
Your gun & cylinder will stay much cleaner, barrel leading is pretty much a thing of the past, a 1 lb bottle of Harbor Freight Red costs about $6-$7 & will coat several thousand bullets.
Plus you can shoot a softer bullet faster than before without leading & many times without a gas check, especially in rifles. Use what you like but the best thing to come along in my life time as far as bullet casting is powder coat paint. And you don't have to buy an expensive lubrisizer, just buy Lee sizer dies for $26 & you're done.

Dick
 

Luckyducker

Single-Sixer
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
199
Location
Ft. Morgan, CO
I use only pre-lubed bullets usually .001" larger than groove diameter of the barrel I am shooting them through. If loading for a revolver I use a bullet that is just slightly larger than throat diameter of the chamber, and I have had to open throats up to get the proper throat opening to shoot well. There is a whole lot of info in loading manuals and on the net but most of my knowlege of shooting cast bullets has been through personal experience with loading and shooting them. I push them about as hard as a jacketed bullet and often have a little lead in the bores but that is to be expected if pushing them that fast.
 

FieldGrade

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
35
Location
North Central Idaho
mikld said:
Of the three, "tumble lubing" is the easiest. Just drop the bullets in a container, add a bit of alox, swirl and dry. "Solid" lubing is a bit more involved, with more equipment needed; either for pan lubing, or using a lubersizer. Powder coating is the most involved with minimum of tumbling in powder, then curing the powder in an oven. Also most cast bullets must be sized, either before, during, or after lubing/coating, which adds to the process. And there is a bit more to loading cast bullets than jacketed (case prep, load data, etc., is a bit different).

For better, more complete answers, I would highly suggest Lyman's /cast Bullet Handbook. It will explain all aspects of casting, lubing, loading and shooting cast lead bullets...

All three methods ou mention will work, each with it's pro's and cons, and lubing can be a very "personal" operation as much deals with the methods, equipment, and performance with certain loads, and how the reloader feels about the methods/results.

Perhaps the easiest way to get acquainted with cast bullets is to purchase some ready to load cast bullets.. Even though I have been casting for a good while I occasionally purchase cast bullets. I like Acme, and Beartooth bullets but most produce a good product. Just make sure the bullets fit your gun or you may have barrel leading and accuracy issues (bullet diameter vs. chamber/throat diameter vs. groove diameter)...

https://www.google.com/search?q=cast+bullet+manualfacturers&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS776US776&oq=cast+bullet+manualfacturers&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.10360j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Either I wasn't clear or you didn't read my entire post because as I stated...."I have already purchased all three types from two different bullet manufacturers". And to tell you the truth I have no intention of casting my own.

I'm mainly interested in things like effects on velocity (which I've read that coated bullets can greatly effect), is Alox as dirty as I've read it is, and does the added cost of pre lubed warrant tumbling them yourself.

FYI.....I bought the coated and pre lubed bullets from Acme. They seem like a good product with fair prices. If things go as I suspect they will I'll probably stick with their pre lubed bullets.
 

Rclark

Hunter
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
3,547
Location
Butte, MT
I've always just used the 'standard' lubed bullets (waxy stuff in the lube groove(s) ). I've spit them out up to 1300fps with no leading problems and gone as low as 600fps in my revolvers. Never seen the need for 'fancy' lubes and coatings. A gun being 'dirty' after shooting never has bothered me as I clean my guns. Of course you have to realize that there is more to leading than just picking a bullet. The bullet should just fit the throats, the throats should be at least .001 over the bore diameter, the throats should be lined up with the forcing cone, the forcing cone should be cut correctly, the barrel should be polished with no constrictions. The bullet hardness should match the pressure put on it (not to soft, not to hard)... As for velocity ... just regulate with your powder to get where you want to be with accuracy being the primary concern. Easy peasy.

Anyway, the best way is for you to do your own testing. If you like ... great. If you don't ... move on.
 

FieldGrade

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
35
Location
North Central Idaho
Rclark said:
I've always just used the 'standard' lubed bullets (waxy stuff in the lube groove(s) ). I've spit them out up to 1300fps with no leading problems and gone as low as 600fps in my revolvers. Never seen the need for 'fancy' lubes and coatings. A gun being 'dirty' after shooting never has bothered me as I clean my guns. Of course you have to realize that there is more to leading than just picking a bullet. The bullet should just fit the throats, the throats should be at least .001 over the bore diameter, the throats should be lined up with the forcing cone, the forcing cone should be cut correctly, the barrel should be polished with no constrictions. The bullet hardness should match the pressure put on it (not to soft, not to hard)... As for velocity ... just regulate with your powder to get where you want to be with accuracy being the primary concern. Easy peasy.

Anyway, the best way is for you to do your own testing. If you like ... great. If you don't ... move on.

Again....."I clearly said I plan to".....I was just curious about others experiences.

Sheesh.......what a bunch of snobs.......never mind.
 

contender

Ruger Guru
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Messages
25,444
Location
Lake Lure NC USA
FieldGrade,
I think you are being a bit harsh in calling the folks snobs.

I read your OP, and was reading the replies. I had to re-read it to understand what you were trying to ask.
Often, the typed word doesn't come out as what we are thinking. I'll admit to being a bit confused myself about your questions.

First,,, by your OP,,, I felt you are totally new to using cast bullets.
And, apparently by the replies,, so do the others here.

And yes,, by trying all 3,, only then will you get the real answers you seek.

But, as sixshot has stated,, he has quit using any lubed type of bullets in favor of powder coated ones. You asked for opinions & experiences. Well, I can attest to the fact that sixshot has put tens of thousands of cast bullets downrange, in competition, practice, and on game animals.

But to add a little to the above,, I've used all 3 types of bullets you mentioned.
The Alox coated ones,, in general, sticky to handle, and can attract dirt if not properly stored. They work as intended for most applications.

Wax based lubes in the grooves of bullets also do as required,, without the overall coating of sticky stuff that Alox leaves. In general, the majority of casters used this method for serious shooting until powder coating came along.

Powder coating. I, along with many others like sixshot, have stopped using wax/grease lubed bullets in favor of the coated ones. MUCH easier to use all around.

That said,, to get the best accuracy & performance, you must do as mentioned,, use a bullet that is .001 larger than the groove diameter of your bore. To do that,, you'd need to do a process called "slugging" the bore, and getting a proper bore measurement. An internet search can explain all of it easily. But basically, you drive a soft, (pure) lead slug down the bore, and measure the slug to determine the bore diameter.

Relax,, we will help, and aren't snobs. It's often confusing to read a post,, not knowing exactly what a poster is saying. I've been guilty of it as well as most people.
 

Ron IL

Bearcat
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
91
Location
Southern Illinois
Sorry for all of the confusion on your post. I also re-read it and thought all of the responses were normal. I probably now only use cast bullets. I used a bunch of the blue lube in the groove type. Then when I found some of the coated ones tried them. I won't buy anything but coated now. The blue lubed ones did require more cleaning in the barrel and had to clean the dies out too. They also smoked more when you shoot them. They would get a build up of lube in the dies and a blob would come out on a loaded one and you know you need to clean out the die. With the coated ones cleanup was nothing more than a pull through bore snake a couple of times in the barrel and have never had to clean a die. I have a few lubed ones left to shoot but now only buying coated type. I load 45 ACP, 45 Colt, and 38 spl. I like the Acme bullet and ones from my local caster, Mastercast Bullets. Right now I am testing some Missouri Bullets and they look good. The best 38 bullet I found is the DEWC. (double ended wad cutter) 148 grain, and 3.2 grain of Bulls Eye.
 

Skoopski

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 27, 2015
Messages
392
Location
Missouri, USA
Well said Contender, and +1 for coated bullets.

I'm not sure I can ever go back. And if anyone's interested in trying before you buy the components to do it yourself, Missouri Bullet Co. makes some very nice coated options in pretty much all of their bullet profiles. I've not had any leading issues or noticable accuracy changes, good or bad, using the coated.

Plus I like to sort loads based on different color combos so I know what I have at a glance and don't have to read the card I attached. Red is for light plinking loads for the kids/ new shooters. Green is standard velocity. Black is hunting rounds. Etc.

Good luck on your adventures and please post your results you've found.
 

mikld

Blackhawk
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
947
Location
Oregon
Do your research. First, learn about cast lead bullets. The Lyman manual is probably the most popular. Then research the differences in coating/lubes/loads. Google "shooting cast bullets" and you'll get many hits. Most online forums, youtube videos, etc., are opinions, and many often lead the new user astray. Your two "I've read" examples show this.

Or just continue to insult the ones you ask for help...
 

mikld

Blackhawk
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
947
Location
Oregon
Sheesh.......what a bunch of snobs.......never mind.

Hmmm. Some say there are no stupid questions, but I now beg to differ. When I was working with apprentices I started with the basics (basic electricity) and then, after the apprentice had the basics down, I would advance into electronics. You want to jump right into "advanced" cast bullet use, without knowing anything about basic lead bullets. You might find enough info to make some lead bullets shoot in your guns, but good luck with that.
 

sixshot

Buckeye
Joined
Aug 20, 2006
Messages
1,835
Location
soda springs, idaho
36 posts & you ask a question that has quite a few variables & you got a good number of options to your questions & "we" are a bunch of snobs????? Good luck on your next question!

Dick
 

gster

Single-Sixer
Joined
Apr 13, 2014
Messages
109
Location
N.C. Pa.
If you are buying cast bullets, buy them pre lubed. Start casting your own and then you can worry about which lube is best for you. Everyone has their favorites. Just because I like to Tumble lube my cast bullets (I cast my own)with 60/40 doesn't mean you will. Sorry if this sounds snobbish.
 

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