Trigger pull gauge (Update and thanks)

I'm posting this here simply because I would assume people who reload are probably more likely to have a trigger pull gauge. If so what do you think of them? I'm wanting to get one. Over on rimfire central, everyone with a buckmark is talking about reversing some spring in the trigger to lighten the trigger pull. The Heggis flip, they are calling it. Apparently it doesn't work 100% of the time however and isn't a "proper" method to lighten a trigger....But Everyone swears their trigger pull is 2 pounds, just not sure how they measured...

. I have a buckmark and it's trigger couldn't be more than 2 pounds as it is, unmodified. But I'd also like to see what some of my other guns are.

Will the trigger pull be the same weight when dry fired vs, shooting a live bullet? One gauge I read about said it is best to try 10 pulls and take the average. I guess this makes sense. Are the cheap units very accurate to begin with or will I just be throwing my money away?

I have one of the RCBS ( spring type ) trigger pull gauges. I use it as a comparison gauge only when working on my guns. I cant tell you if it is accurate or not and really
Don't care. It does tell me if I have made a difference in the trigger pull or not and that is the info I am wanting.

I use the "Lyman Trigger Pull Gage Electronic Digital 0 to 12 lb". These things are more than a bit like chronos in that calibrating them is tough.

So the only comment I have about (relative) accuracy is that my gauge shows reasonably close readings to the spec for my Sako's set trigger . . . ~4 lbs normal, ~8oz when set.

You take multiple readings for some of the same reasons you chrono multiple rounds. The gauge probably has some error and variability, most trigger pulls will vary some, the angle of your gauge as used can have some effect, etc. So you take the average.

As Chuck said, they can at least give you an indication you changed something in your trigger pull.

I have both of the scales mentioned above. Both work as intended.

To be honest, when I do a trigger job I worry more about the feel of the trigger more than the pull weight.

I have an inexpensive trigger pull gauge. They work on the same principle as, say, a fishing scale, and as long as you do not overload them, they are as accurate as you need them to be (mine measures in 1/4lb increments, which is good enough). The trigger pull will be the same whether the gun is loaded or not, UNLESS there is another problem like cases binding the rotation of the revolver cylinder. I measure trigger pull often enough that I have snap caps for almost every caliber for this purpose.

The main inaccuracy introduced in measuring trigger pull is the position of the gauge on the trigger shoe. I find it's often easier to measure the trigger pull with the grips off, since they may prevent you from pulling the gauge straight back versus slightly to one side. However, I don't really strive for a certain trigger weight when working on guns; as other have said, I'm more concerned with the feel. I mainly use the gauge to estimate how much improvement can/has been made and to make sure I don't lighten anything to a point where it might be dangerous.

I have the RCBS spring model that goes to 8#'s. I probably bought it in the 70's. There's no need whatsoever to go with an expensive one. Mine is accurate as far as consistency is concerned. Sometimes I'm amazed at a higher reading on a trigger that breaks like a glass rod. They're inexpensive and the fun factor is cool. Buy one, now! :mrgreen:

Thanks, I can see what everyone has said, if I have the gauge positioned differently than my trigger finger when shooting, the reading would be off. And mostly what Chuck said, regardless of what the number reads, it will show the difference if I change the trigger.

I will get one Cholo, but it's got to wait for a bit. We have some big bills to take care of first. We are getting a new fence! Then some other stuff coming up... Life ya know?

But thanks for the feedback from everyone. It confirms what I had been thinking about these gauges. Well that plus it confirms what I know about the members on the forum, first rate all the way.

Let us know what the trigger pull is on your granddaughters new bearcat Cholo!

Hi,

Kevin, Mother Nature is your friend when money's tight! I read about this "poor boy's" trigger pull gauge long ago in reference to a 1911, and it's easy enough to duplicate if you have a kitchen, postal or similar scale that measures in ounces up to maybe 5 lbs or so. It probably won't take much more time to do than to tell you how, too.

Put the gun, unloaded, of course, with the barrel vertical and muzzle pointed up in a vise, protected by some sort of soft jaw inserts (even a few layers of masking tape will work if you're careful.) Make sure there's a clear straight line below the trigger toward the floor. If you have something like heavier fishing weights, they can be employed next. If not, a smallish bag (gallon size Ziploc, maybe) can be filled to a desired starting weight with sand, lead shot, bullets, whatever you can get in there.

Now fill the bag to your starting weight, let's say 2 lbs. Tie a strong string in a loop around the trigger (make the loop big enough it can clear the trigger guard and "self center" on the trigger), and fasten the other end to the weight/bag. One or two of those big paper binder clips from the office supply store should work to secure the bag. With the gun cocked, gently lower the bag until the string is taught and let it take the weight (you may wish to remove the grips so the string doesn't snag.) Don't let it drop or you'll get false readings. If the gun goes off, you're working with a sub-2 lb trigger (and you can reverse the following procedure to find out how much if you wish.) If not, increase the weight by say 4 oz (1/4 lb) at a time and repeat until it does go off (you can increase by as little as an ounce at a time if you've got time to kill.) When it does, you've got your pull weight! Repeat each weight a couple of times to make sure, then relax, confident that gravity still works, and is more constant than most inexpensive springs!

Plus, you can brag that you actually MEASURED your trigger pull. You might be surprised at how many who claim they've got 2 lb (or whatever weight) triggers haven't. All that smoke blowing thru the shooting world doesn't always come from the gun barrels, ya know? Just to add personal experience and opinion here: I find a WELL set up, 2 lb trigger is scary light. See Precision32's comments!

Rick C

The trigger pull weight of my Anchutz 54.18 I use in smallbore metallic silhouette measures a whole two ounces. Two pounds is way too heavy.

Probably depends on the application, no? You wouldn't catch me loading a live round in a firearm with a 2oz trigger pull anywhere but a firing range. I've got a Rossi 92 that I polished and put a spring kit in that measures around 1lb and that makes me a bit nervous to allow other people to handle.

NikA said:

Probably depends on the application, no? You wouldn't catch me loading a live round in a firearm with a 2oz trigger pull anywhere but a firing range. I've got a Rossi 92 that I polished and put a spring kit in that measures around 1lb and that makes me a bit nervous to allow other people to handle.

Click to expand...

As NikA said, it probably depends on the application. For my applications (adjusting the triggers to 3 - 3.5 pounds) on my and my wife's hunting rifles, a "poor man's" trigger gage similar Rick Courtright's, works just fine. Like Rick, I too loop a strong, non-stretchy piece of string around the trigger, but I use a fish scale on the other end of the loop. My setup might not be accurate enough for someone shooting precision rifle competitions, but it's accurate enough for my purposes.

Rick, thanks! That is a great idea. I will give it a try this weekend. I was thinking 2 pounds is light. I do have a 10/22 Kidd trigger, a few years ago I splurged and bought the double stage, I think it is set at 8 oz. I know I just have to touch it. But my brother has one of those TOZ free pistols. That thing is light enough a strong breeze will set it off.

I do the same thing that Rick Courtright does, but I use a ziplock sandwich bag and add some of my cast bullets. I start with the bag on the floor and slowly raise the gun with the muzzle pointed up. If the hammer doesn't fall, I add more bullets, if it falls I take a few out. Then I just count the bullets and do the math.

Rick and others! Thanks for the ideas about a ziplock bag trigger pull. I used 2 pounds of marbles to start. I checked my little postal scales against some water and it seemed accurate. A pint bottle of water weighed in at one pound and 1.4 ounces (for the bottle)

So! My incredibly well used Mark II came in with a trigger pull of right at 2 pounds. I think even a little less, I tried it at least a dozen times a few more marbles and a few less to get some bracketing of highs and lows and it was pretty consistent.

I knew this was a light trigger, but now I can brag about it! So thanks! I still will buy a "real" trigger pull gauge to test against. But for now this seems to work.

I stumbled across a nice sized used platform type meat scale with a tag saying it was certified by the state inspector for selling retail over the counter. It is a digital readout and can be read in grams or pounds and tenths of onces. It was fifty dollars and I use it all the time in hobby gunsmithing.

I can use any container with a hook as described above, fill it with lead shot to any amount from one to ten pounds and lift it with my gauge and see what it reads.
for mine, I need to subtract one ounce to get the right reading. I mark that on the gauge so as not to forget.

Mine is distributed or made by Feather River Sports in Lake Oroville CA. I probably got it from Brownells in the last year, but might be from Midway.

The meat scale is most valuable in weighing shotguns or their components to learn about the swing weight and balance points of the shotguns that I shoot well. Always wondering why I shoot some guns better than others.