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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 11:18 am 
Hawkeye
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Location: So. Florida
My air handler in the garage has been leaking condensate for some time and I can't seem to stop it. I have cleaned the coils and the tray and flushed out everything several times. I even put some extra sheet metal in the air handler to direct condensate into the tray. I still get water running out the bottom of the door on the front. So I made a little sheet metal tray to go under the door and to catch the condensate that drips from there. So far so good but emptying the bucket 2 or 3 times a day was tiring so I made a little attachment from a piece of garden hose to catch the drips and flow it back into the drain pipe. Seems to be working goooooooood. What do you think?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:13 pm 
Blackhawk

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 12:51 pm 
Hunter
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You said flushed everything out, but i have to ask, have you cleaned out the complete condensate line? Mine was doing that and there was some sludge in the line. I cleaned that out and all was good.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 1:08 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:09 am
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Location: The Liberal held left bank of the Mississippi River
I have a hose running to the floor drain.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 2:09 pm 
Buckeye
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If you have cleaned out everything else, I suspect a clog (usually a mineral buildup) in the final drain line below where your drainpipe enters the drain running down to your sewer line. I've had two separate homes that had that issue. Both were in the sections that ran from floor level down to the sewer line. I got both cleared then had an A/C tech tell me to drop a crushed up enzyme tablet down the pipe a couple of times a year same as with a septic system. Ain't had a problem since.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 2:10 pm 
Hunter

Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:01 am
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Location: Jacksonville, Maryland
I would guess the condensate line is clogged too.
Recently my MIL’s air handler was leaking condensate. It turned out the condensate pan had shifted and was no longer sloping to the outlet. A relatively easy fix for the HVAC tech.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 3:11 pm 
Hunter
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I fixed my AC permanently when we moved into our house about 24 years ago. We don't have an AC unit, of any kind. Works great every day and very economical.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 3:50 pm 
Hawkeye
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I know my condensate drain pipe is clear because I can hook a hose up to where you see the small piece of hose connected, close the valve and flush everything out. The pan also drains but for some reason there is a leak under the front door. I think it might be a crack where the drain pipe screws into the drain pan. In any event it is going to stay like that until it gets worse or something else happens.

I think the coil and pan needs to be pulled out and checked but that is no easy job. It might need to be disconnected from the copper lines. It can wait, I guess.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 4:11 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:30 pm
Posts: 7534
Location: Arizona
Jimbo357mag wrote:
I know my condensate drain pipe is clear because I can hook a hose up to where you see the small piece of hose connected, close the valve and flush everything out. The pan also drains but for some reason there is a leak under the front door. I think it might be a crack where the drain pipe screws into the drain pan. In any event it is going to stay like that until it gets worse or something else happens.

I think the coil and pan needs to be pulled out and checked but that is no easy job. It might need to be disconnected from the copper lines. It can wait, I guess.


Drain pan cracks are fairly common... Especially where the condensate fitting screws in. People love to overtighten the things and it splits the pan.

The other thing to check is the refrigerant charge or TXV (if equipped). If the pressure is low or if the Thermal Expansion Valve is overfeeding, the evaporator is going to run colder than it should and pull a lot more water out of the air. In that case, the thing could simply be overwhelming the drain pan and overflowing.

I'd help you fix it if I was closer! I got all the stuff to do it. ;)

Good luck!

ETA: A restricted airflow will also cause too light a load on the coil which can force it to run cooler than the design, which also makes more condensate... Make sure your ducts are clear and your filter(s) is/are clean.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 4:17 pm 
Hunter
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If the horizontal piece under the valve is the hose then you have all of that line above the valve to plug up. My clog was in the fitting that transitions from the pan to line.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 4:45 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Sat Feb 13, 2016 8:30 pm
Posts: 7534
Location: Arizona
Jimbo,

I could be mistaken, but it looks like you have an air handler that requires a P-Trap. (Negative pressure meaning it draws air through the evaporator rather than pushing air through it) I'm assuming the box is your air source. If that's the case, then the water level will be too high also because it will be trying to suck the water up inside the unit. A P-Trap arrangement will allow a water seal, and it will run a lower level in the tray.

The photo below shows a correctly installed P-Trap on a negative-pressure air handler.

Regards, Pete



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2019 5:39 pm 
Hawkeye
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Location: So. Florida
The drain pipe is fine and the tray is not overflowing. I am pretty sure there is a crack in the pan, I just can't pull it out all the way to check it. When it gets a little cooler in a month or two I will try to pull it out or call the a/c guys. Gosh I hope I can fix it.

btw this rig is just temporary until I can dig into it a little more. I thought you guys could appreciate the situation. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Right now in August with it being 90 degrees everyday I don't want to take it off-line for any length of time.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 6:53 am 
Hawkeye

Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:27 am
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Location: Junction,Tx
A "temp fix" is still a fix.

My neighbor got charged $100 for a starting capacitor by the nice hvac guy.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 7:59 am 
Hunter

Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:01 am
Posts: 3700
Location: Jacksonville, Maryland
As long as your temp fix involves some duck tape and bailing wire, you’re good. :)
Now if you want to really do it right, get a small automatic bilge pump, a 12 volt battery and hose to pump it somewhere. Then all you’ll need to do is throw a charger on the battery every week or so. ;)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:05 am 
Buckeye
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Joined: Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:04 pm
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Location: Texas
Sounds like its time call folks at Flex Seal ...... :idea:

https://www.asseenontvlive.com/product/ ... lEQAvD_BwE

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