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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 7:35 pm 
Single-Sixer
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Location: Michigan
I bought a 700 square foot cabin built in the 50's. I'm putting in about 300 square feet of wood floor over 1960's linoleum and an oak floor base. What's the best kind of nails for this job? I'm thinking 1-1/4" galvanized twisty nails would do the trick. Wanted to know what you thought.

Other random info:

I don't want to use a nail gun. I've done this before with hammer and a punch, slowly and carefully with good results. The type of nail is still undecided though.

The oak original oak floor is not economically restorable as the previous owner dumped a thick tar-like substance to glue it to the floor. it's there for good.

Thanks for your thoughts and feedback.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:45 pm 
Hunter
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am I to assume you will use 3/4" t&g random length hardwood flooring? If so and not using any sort of nail gun I would use 6 penny finish nails and pre-drill with the proper size bit. The nails go in at about 45° and stay put. Any boards you have to surface nail can use the same nails. If you are doing another type of wood flooring i don't know because my ex-wife took my Tarot cards when she left many years ago. Good luck with your remodel job.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 8:48 pm 
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.

When I was building houses with hardwood floors, we were completely satisfied with a pneumatic nailer, using nails recommended by the flooring manufacturer.

Image

.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:21 pm 
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Chief 101 wrote:
am I to assume you will use 3/4" t&g random length hardwood flooring? If so and not using any sort of nail gun I would use 6 penny finish nails and pre-drill with the proper size bit. The nails go in at about 45° and stay put. Any boards you have to surface nail can use the same nails. If you are doing another type of wood flooring i don't know because my ex-wife took my Tarot cards when she left many years ago. Good luck with your remodel job.


Yes. I am using 3/4" t&g hardwood flooring.

By the way, you no longer need those tarot cards as you read minds just fine!

Thanks for the info.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 9:24 pm 
Hawkeye

Joined: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:40 pm
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Location: Southwest Washington
I have used ring shank nails in this application. They won’t back out typically, but the I am not a flooring expert. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 15, 2019 11:35 pm 
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Harbor Freight has a floor nailer as well as floor nails. Not super cheap but would make the job quicker and easier with no damaged nails or boards. Probably could get it cheaper with a discount coupon too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=floor%20nailer

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 4:43 am 
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Thanks guys. I'll consider all options. A 6 penny nail is 2" long. I'll look at various options in that size: twist shank, ring shank and smooth. A small head (finishing nail, most likely) would be a must, since it needs to bury itself into the corners nicely.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 6:03 am 
Buckeye

Joined: Fri Sep 10, 2010 6:59 am
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Location: vermont
How about some GRK, star drive, trim head, finish/trim screws? They come with the driver. You'll still have to predrill holes in your HW flooring. I love these things.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GRK-Fastene ... /203525312


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 8:36 am 
Hawkeye
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I'd use the pneumatic nailer as picture above. Years ago I put down a hardwood floor and tried to use one of the nailers you set and hit with a big hammer... could not get the hang of it an so put the floor down like you mentioned drilling pilot house and using finishing nails..... lots of time involved in that but it will work.

As a side note, there is a way to remove that black adhesive .... I've done it.... but you really don't want to know and it is probably one of the worst and most dangerous jobs in the world....

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 9:04 am 
Hawkeye

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Pete44ru Has the ticket right there an air powered stapler. never ever will pull up.
Many places that sells flooring will supply one to you if you purchase your materials from them. All you'll need is a compressor and fasteners. It IS the way to go!
I put in more hardwood floors than I care to remember. Use rosin paper between the sub floor and your new floor stop the squeak. ps

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 9:25 am 
Hunter
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I've removed some of that old linoleum black goo with acetone and a floor scraper. Then a final sand with a rental floor sander. You need lots of fresh air moving through with the acetone though. If you go your route I wonder if the twisty nails would even drive into oak? The ring shanks might be the best compromise for holding but easier to pound. I'm sure power nailers work well but A man with the patience to hand nail a floor or roof will always result in the best job in my opinion. Definitely bragging rights for sure!


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 6:12 pm 
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I'm definitely not messing with the black goop. I tried some "less than lethal" methods of removal, and it got me nowhere. Besides, I already have the wood. Got it dirt cheap from three different sources: garage sale over 10 years ago, free from my brother and a great deal from the local Restore Store. Might as well use it.

I will pick up some rosin paper as well.

Thanks everyone.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 8:12 pm 
Hawkeye
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We want pics of the cabin! A 70 year old cabin in t he woods of Michigan (I assume) sounds like Heaven!

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 10:11 pm 
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Location: Michigan
wolfsong wrote:
We want pics of the cabin! A 70 year old cabin in t he woods of Michigan (I assume) sounds like Heaven!


Thanks. It's our dream property.

No pics on my tablet. Sorry. The place is like Heaven. My ashes will be spread under the virgin white pines some day. Wife loves it even more than I. Here's the run-down:

65 acres
700 square foot basement with a basement.
Large stream close to source
Pond
Completely wooded
1 hour 15 minutes from home
Bought it for a song
One owner (old ww2 vet).
Deer, turkey, trout, salmon
Underground fallout bunker (10x10 room). Fully intact, safe and dry.

Work to do:
Ay year's end I will probably end up putting about $2,000 to $5,000 in the cabin for various repairs, upgrades, materials and remodeling.
Lots of dead trees to cut down near cabin.
Need to instal wood floor.
Bunker entrance partially blocked by load of roofing shingles.
Pond flow dam and drain needs updating.

Work completed:
Many dead trees cut down near cabin.
Lots of trimming.
Septic tank service.
Drain pipes rooted.
Inside painted.
Cleared out original owner's possessions, furniture, lifetime accumulation of stuff.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 17, 2019 1:44 pm 
Hunter

Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 1:01 am
Posts: 3668
Location: Jacksonville, Maryland
Another comment about the black goo under the linoleum is that given its age it likely has asbestos in it. Not a problem if it’s not removed and covered up with wood flooring.


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