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[OCD]

The spring kit comes with a 9, 10 and 12 lb spring. Any input on which one to start with or just start in the middle with the 10lb?? The factory spring is 14 lbs I believe. I just want a little lighter action, but not have problems with failure to ignite.

Thanks

[bub]

OCD, it really doesn't matter where you start, just MAKE SURE you shoot the gun to verify reliability after the switch. Personally, after gun mods, I test with CCI primers, as they tend to be among the hardest available. If the gun shoots with CCI primers, it should be OK with everything else. I also test with my carry load, but I start off with CCI and have never had a problem with this process.

I've never changed out springs in my SP, but I did play the spring game with my S&W M649. I also bought the Wolff spring kit for it. I can't remember what the weights were, but IIRC it also came with 3 mainsprings and 1 rebound slide spring, similar to the trigger return spring in an SP. I started out with the lightest and THANK GOD I tested it. None of the Wolff springs would reliably set off a primer, so I ended up back with the factory springs for reliability. Because of this, I haven't touched the factory springs on my SP, I just "tweaked" the innards for smoothness and practiced for the trigger pull weight. This is why testing is so important- imagine REALLY NEEDING the gun and it won't go off! Dead or injured OCD!

Bub

[OCD]

Thanks, I put the 10lb spring in last night along with the 8lb trigger/latch spring. I makes it a little nicer feel. It wasn't really that bad to begin with. I reload and have Wolf, CCI and Win primers. The Wolf are about as hard as the CCI. I will definitely test them out. I changed the springs in my J frame SW 642. The trigger on that was awful. The Ruger LCR still has a much nicer trigger even after changing the SW. I am going to load a bunch of 38 specials today to test them in all the modified guns. If I get inspired I will readjust the dies and load some full load 357's, gotta have the big bang once and a while.

[CraigJS]

OCD, please keep us updated on your spring trials. I just purchased the same spring pak for my 101. Thanks.
Be safe, Craig

[I_Like_Pie]

I have found that the 10 pound one is way too light. I have fired hundreds of rounds through the 12 pound spring and have always had solid primer strikes. Had a ouple of FTF with the 10...even more so with the rimfire versions of the SP.

[G2]

IBOK + 9lb Spring and now it's super smooth, and current round count @ 1150, and not one miss fire.

This gun w/ the 14lb spring never got shot, now everybody wants a turn.

[Snobal]

Suggestion: My recent "lesson learned" is that before you do anything to the SP101, get a scale so you can measure your SA and DA pull weights - you may be happy with just a "polish job." Wal-Mart has a fish scale for about $5 that works just fine.

I got a used SP101 last month, so I ordered the spring kit by the part # called for in the IBOK, and did most of the IBOK procedures.

Then I realized that I had screwed up. I wish I had measured the SA and DA pull weights prior to polishing the parts.....

Anyway, I found a fish scale works great for measuring SA & DA pull weights. I'm not going to say that the scale is "accurate," but it does give a "relative" indication of trigger pull.

Again, this SP101 is "used" and had most of the IBOK polish procedures done prior to trying the hammer spring kit. I did not bother to install the trigger return springs from the kit because the stock one suits me. Here are my results:

- 12 lb Spring, DA = 10 1/2 lbs, SA = 2 1/2 lbs

- 10 lb Spring, DA = 9 1/2 lbs, SA = 2 1/2 lbs

- 9 lb Spring, DA = 8 lbs, SA = 2 1/2 lbs

- Stock Spring, DA = 10 1/2 lbs, SA 2 1/2 lbs

I really liked the way this SP101 felt after the IBOK procedures and ended up staying with the stock spring.

Since the spring kit can be used on GP100's, I decided to use it on a "target" gun where a "FTF" would not be critical, rather than a CCW gun.
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