Recent content by sgt 127

I’m not a hunter. I don’t own a scoped revolver. At 100 yards, standing, unsupported, I can hit a standard IDPA target 14 out of 15 rounds With a Wilson .45. It’s a pattern, not a group. So. Yeah. I could see 2-3 inches with a good revolver. Shooting a flat shooting round. With good optics...

With the cylinder closed. Fully latched. And no manipulation of the hammer, trigger. The cylinder should not turn on either one. If you closed it and the cylinder is not yet locked, it may turn just a little until the pawl/bolt drops into the cylinder recess. But, that’s it. No more than one...

I have many choices. 3” S&W 65. S&W 642. 2 3/4” Speed Six. 4” S&W 66 and, more. Honestly. This gets carried more than anything. It’s the absolute smallest .357 I’m willing to shoot. Solid. Reliable. Easy to carry appendix. I live in the high desert. Between 158 GR hardcast and rat shot, I can...

I just noticed something. Did you buy the gun used? You said: “It's a DA / hammerless gun, so if I'm careful I can engage the SA sear by pulling back the hammer to cock it…” Because a factory DA only trigger has the full cock notch removed. Somebody bobbed it. Maybe some shot a couple...

It’s a little dirty. There’s a reference for you.

Unless you shot 500 rounds of lead bullets lubricated with sand, there is no way that rifling is worn out. Can you post a picture? I’d buy a Lewis Lead Remover and drag it through the barrel a few times. Or, wrap some true copper Choreboy around a worn brush and scrub that barrel.

Very nice condition. I’ve maybe fired 30 factory rounds through it. Bought it new. Slight line on cylinder. $595 including shipping. Me direct to your FFL or, FFL to FFL. USPS Mo. Venmo. Zelle. Personal checks hold until clear. Email direct [email protected]. box. Docs. Sleeve etc. See...

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