I did a little digging. Last night I just saw a fairly modern pipe holder. Today I found that this could be a long search.
Using a rivet set when fastening together 2, 3 or maybe 4 pieces of metal. You would give the end of the rivet a light smack to tighten it in the hole a bit, then you would place the hole over the rivet to drive all the pieces down on the rivet head before actually setting the rivet with a hammer or a gun.Doesn't look like any rivet punch I've ever seen. Most of those have a hole to cut the rivet to correct length for head forming.
Or is the term a "rivet set"?
Bob Wright
Interesting.. I am still waiting to see if Greenfieldresponds to my email query.I did a little digging. Last night I just saw a fairly modern pipe holder. Today I found that this could be a long search.
View attachment 45417
That is highly likely a correct description of what this does. It looks like one in the picture.When grinding a precision taper, especially in the days before modern computer assisted CMM's, you would check the paper for correct included angle with a taper gage. You could lightly wipe on hi spot bluing (Prussian Blue) and see if it transfers evenly. If it make a blue ring at the bottom the taper angle is too large if a ring at the top the angle is too small. If correct you get an even transfer and if the finish is smooth enough the gage will almost lock into place. like a morse taper for tools. Once the angle is correct you can grind for size and the gage generally has two steps for min and max. You would want the gage to stop with the suface face between the two steps.
I believe that is a taper gage.
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I was taught, back in the last century, that when the plies were compressed, any part of the rivet that protruded was to be cut off. the thickness of the set determined the proper length of the protrusion for proper head forming.Using a rivet set when fastening together 2, 3 or maybe 4 pieces of metal. You would give the end of the rivet a light smack to tighten it in the hole a bit, then you would place the hole over the rivet to drive all the pieces down on the rivet head before actually setting the rivet with a hammer or a gun.
By your first sentance, I assume you were talking about a flush head rivet in the back, I wasn't. I was building airplanes not skyscrapers.I was taught, back in the last century, that when the plies were compressed, any part of the rivet that protruded was to be cut off. the thickness of the set determined the proper length of the protrusion for proper head forming.
Incidentally, up until recently, railroad bridges were to be fastened with rivets rather than bolts. The reason was that formn the head also increased the diameter of the rivet so it completely filled the hole. So, in theory, a 3/4" dia. rivet became 13/16" dia. after forming. Not sure this is still practiced today. been awhile since I was inteested in these things.
Bob Wright
Looks "steeper" then any taper I'm familiar with?That is highly likely a correct description of what this does. It looks like one in the picture.
I remember the Three Stooges playing Iron Workers.I was taught, back in the last century, that when the plies were compressed, any part of the rivet that protruded was to be cut off. the thickness of the set determined the proper length of the protrusion for proper head forming.
Incidentally, up until recently, railroad bridges were to be fastened with rivets rather than bolts. The reason was that formn the head also increased the diameter of the rivet so it completely filled the hole. So, in theory, a 3/4" dia. rivet became 13/16" dia. after forming. Not sure this is still practiced today. been awhile since I was inteested in these things.
Bob Wright
Plumb bobs ususlly have a relatively sharp conicl point, this for exact centering over a benchmark.I didn't see all sides, but if there is a hole at the end of the shaft it could be a plumb bob
I wonder how many people have been killed with plumb bobs?Plumb bobs ususlly have a relatively sharp conicl point, this for exact centering over a benchmark.
Years ago I was going to survey a prospective job site with an engineer who was from India. Had to pack the plumb bob in checked luggage, too dangerous for carry-on.
Bob Wright
Don't think so, what ever it is is designed to be hand held. If it was a lathe center it would most likely have a machined taperI am sticking with my 'tube centering device for a lathe.
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